Бухара - Цитадель Арк
В центре города Бухара находится оплот последних эмиров — цитадель Арк. Археологические остатки начала нашей эры, когда в Бухаре уже существовали некоторые поселения, гораздо глубже, чем ее нынешнее местонахождение.
Высокие кирпичные стены с зубчатым концом скрывают огромный холм — именно здесь в древние времена, более двух тысяч лет назад, появился город Бухара. Это его крепость, Цитадель Арк в городе Бухара.
На протяжении веков его высота постепенно увеличивалась, так как новые здания возводились на месте обветшалых. Согласно легенде, здесь находилась могила Сиявуша, легендарного основателя города.
Царица Хутак Хатун жила и царствовала здесь в 7 веке н.э. Она несколько лет хитростью и дипломатией защищала Бухару от арабов. Средневековый историк Наршахи писал об этих событиях: «Аллах вселил страх в сердца неверных и они ушли, не приняв борьбы».
Остатки бывших крепостей и дворцов спрятаны в археологических отложениях Арка. В позднем средневековье здесь жили бухарские эмиры. Рядом с воротами стоял кнут («Камчин») — впечатляющее напоминание о власти эмира.
Сохранились лишь несколько зданий бывшей могучей застройки цитадели Арк. На верхней террасе Нагораханская мука собиралась круглосуточно. Трофейные часы — куранты (изготовленные в XIX веке захваченным итальянцем Орландо) звонили каждый час на колокольню и пять раз в день появлялись на башне Азанчи (человек, призывающий к молитве), объявляя о начале молитвы.
Во время Рамазана или Курбана и других праздничных мероприятий оркестр играл с четырьмя уникальными изменениями занавеса и наряда музыкантов: светлого, желтого, огненно-красного и черного.
Площадь перед входом в цитадель Арк — Регистан, была главной ареной всех мероприятий в городе и религиозным центром Бухары. Цитадель Арк является результатом усилий тысяч рабов, которые много веков назад, под жарким солнцем, создали искусственный холм вручную и без оборудования.
Чтобы представить масштабы этой гигантской работы, мы, люди нашей эпохи, должны забыть о современных технологиях и исключить даже такие средства передвижения, как Араба. Эта могучая крепость возвышается над площадью Регистан как символ величия, могущества и непреодолимости.
Это цель, преследуемая власть имущими. И все же впечатление было обманчивым. Очень долгое время цитадель не держала Арк непоколебимым. Она неоднократно восстанавливалась и разрушалась.
Возраст Цитадели Арк не совсем определен, но по крайней мере полторы тысячи лет назад эта величественная крепость уже была резиденцией правителя огромной и густонаселенной страны.
На протяжении многих веков Арк оставался главной резиденцией бухарского эмира, местом, откуда осуществлялось высшее командование страной. Здесь, в мощной укрепленной цитадели, жили не только эмир, но и главный визирь, военачальники, самые многочисленные слуги эмира.
Цитадель Арк — живой свидетель богатой истории города. Когда в 1220 году воины Чингисхана захватили Бухару, жители города заперлись в Арке, а воины Чингисхана вторглись в Арк, убивая защитников, грабя ценности и разрушая крепость.
В городе неоднократно вспыхивали восстания, а затем Арк стал воплощением жестокой тирании, за его ворота вылетели булыжные камни, как в 1708 году во время восстания, связанного с отменой валютной реформы.
Здесь, в цитадели Арк, кроме правителей, проклятых народом, жили и творили великие ученые, поэты и философы. В средние века, когда культура Бухары достигла своего апогея, здесь работали Рудаки, Фирдоуси, Абу Али ибн Сина, Фараби, а позже Омар Хайям.
Цитадель Арк в Бухаре — большой надземный комплекс. По своему характеру он напоминает нерегулярный прямоугольник, который слегка простирается с запада на восток. Его юго-восточный угол слегка срезан.
Он расположен в центре западной части современного города. Длина стен 789,60 м, площадь 3,96 га. Высота от уровня площади Регистан, в непосредственной близости от которой она расположена, колеблется от 16 до 20 метров.
Передний вход в Цитадель Арк архитектурно оформлен в виде двух причальных башен. Верхняя часть башни соединена с галереей, над которой находится помещение с террасами.
Вход в ворота (такул) — это пандус или постепенно восходящая тропа, ведущая через длинный крытый коридор к мечети Джами. Пандус огорожен с обеих сторон массивными каменными перилами, его длина около 20 метров.
На одной из стен Цитадели Арк был обнаружен большой кожаный кнут (символ власти эмира). От ворот цитадели Арк начинается длинный темный коридор, вдоль которого расположены комнаты для воды и песка, камеры для заключенных.
Из исторических материалов и рассказов очевидцев известно, к каким изощренным пыткам прибегал эмир, чтобы покорить своих подданных. В самой цитадели Арк расположен большой комплекс зданий.
Восточная часть цитадели Арк в настоящее время является археологическим памятником. Здесь сохранилась мечеть Чилдухтарон, с которой связана легенда о сорока замученных девушках, брошенных в колодец.
С высоты цитадели Арк открывается захватывающая дух уникальная панорама древней части Бухары. Реставраторы в городе Бухара называют цитадель Арк учебником для строителей. В настоящее время в цитадели Арк ведутся обширные реставрационные работы.
Стены со стороны площади Регистан и многие комнаты внутри цитадели были отреставрированы.
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