Khiva - Walls of Ichan Kala

The Walls of Ichan Kala in Khiva – defence architecture and symbol of representation of a Central Asian oasis city

In the heart of the Uzbek city of Khiva, the city wall of Ichan Kala is one of the most impressive and best-preserved examples of pre-modern fortifications in Central Asia. As the inner, oldest and historically most important part of Khiva, the wall encloses the Ichan Kala area, an ensemble of mosques, madrasas, mausoleums, residential buildings and palaces, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The monumental city fortifications not only served to physically protect the inhabitants, but were also an expression of well thought-out urban spatial planning, political authority and cultural self-assurance.

The structure of Khiva followed a clearly organised urban principle: the city was divided into two concentric units – the Ichan Kala (inner fortress) and the surrounding Dishan Kala (outer city). The inner city wall, whose origins can be traced back to the 5th or 4th century BC, forms the oldest and most monumental part of this double fortification structure. The wall, which has been preserved to this day, dates mainly from later periods, in particular the heyday of the Khiva Khanate in the 17th to 19th centuries, and was restored and reinforced in several stages.

Architectural dimensions and materiality
The city wall of Ichan Kala stretches over a length of around 2,250 metres, forming an almost completely closed rectangle around the historic city centre. The height varies between 8 and 10 metres, while the width at the base can reach up to 8 metres. This imposing structure was built from hand-moulded clay bricks measuring 40 x 40 x 10 centimetres – a traditional building material that was valued in Central Asia for its climatic resistance, thermal insulation and regional availability. Clay, mixed with straw and sand, combined to form a durable yet breathable building material that was optimally adapted to the desert climate.

The wall does not run in a simple line, but is interrupted at regular intervals – approximately every 30 metres – by semi-circular defence towers. These towers protrude slightly beyond the main wall, making it possible to flank potential attackers from different angles. The upper edges have battlements with narrow embrasures between them. Through these, archers and later firearm operators could aim at enemy troops without being completely at the mercy of the attacks themselves.

A remarkable relic of the original defence is the system of moats that additionally secured the walls, especially in the southern and eastern sections. These moats were fed with water from the canals of the Amu Darya and formed an effective barrier against attacking cavalrymen or besieging armies. While traces of these ditches can still be seen in the terrain in the southern area today, they were built over in other parts of the city through later urbanisation measures – in particular asphalt roads.

City gates as military, administrative and representative buildings
Four monumental city gates are embedded in the wall of Ichan Kala, each marking one of the cardinal points and once serving as the main entrances to the city:

• Ata-Darwoza (West Gate)
• Polvon-Darwoza (east gate)
• Tosh-Darwoza (South Gate)
• Bagcha-Darwoza (north gate)

These gates not only functioned as controlled entrances and exits, but were also strategically designed to connect with the most important caravan routes and trade axes. Their massive construction from fired bricks and their complex internal structure – with multiple arched passages, guarded side niches, small domed rooms and accommodation for guards, tax collectors and administrative staff – illustrate their multifunctional role in the military and civilian life of the city.

In some cases, the gate complexes also contained courtrooms or prison cells, which emphasises their importance for the administration of justice and security architecture within Khiva. In particular, the Polvon Darwoza, also known as the “Gate of Executions”, was associated with public justice and the execution of sentences – a reminder of the pre-modern mechanisms of rule in Islamic societies.

At the same time, these buildings had a strong symbolic dimension. In the cultural context of the Islamic world, monumental city gates were regarded as emblems of urban power, sovereignty and religious legitimacy. Accordingly, they were lavishly decorated with ceramic tiles, marbled inscription fields, calligraphic verses from the Koran, poetic dedications and praise of the khans. Colours such as cobalt blue, turquoise and white dominated the tile paintings, whose ornamentation blended seamlessly into the architectural language of the entire old town.

Defence architecture in the context of legend and topography
According to a local legend, the city of Khiva was founded on a natural sand hill, which further emphasises the elevated position of the city walls. Although archaeological finds only partially confirm this legend, the topographical elevation in the southern part of the old town is interpreted by experts as a deliberately chosen location for maximum defensive effect.

Due to their massive appearance and strategic orientation, the walls were not only a means of protection but also a medium of political communication. Their silhouette, especially at sunrise or sunset, made the city appear as an impregnable fortress – a psychological bulwark as well as a real one. For caravans and foreigners approaching the city, the wall was the first visible sign of urban order and courtly authority.

Loss of significance and transformation in the 20th century
With the gradual loss of their military function in the late 19th and early 20th centuries – particularly due to the arrival of Russian troops and the integration of Khiva into the Tsarist Empire and later the Soviet Union – the city walls lost their original function. Parts of the outer fortifications were demolished or fell into disrepair. However, the walls of Ichan Kala were preserved thanks to their cultural and historical significance and were documented, mapped and restored under Soviet aegis from the 1930s onwards.

Today, the walls serve less as a barrier than as a monument that preserves the historical character of Khiva. Some of the gates have been opened to modern traffic, while others remain as pedestrian entrances. Some of the former military spaces within the gates have been converted into museums, information centres or cultural facilities – a transformation that is exemplary of the contemporary reuse of historical infrastructure.

The city walls and gates of Ichan Kala are far more than just remnants of a bygone era. They are architecturally sophisticated, strategically planned and aesthetically charged testimonies to an era in which protection, power and representation were inextricably linked. Their preservation provides unique insights into the military architecture, urban spatial organisation and political culture of Central Asia. As an integral part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Khiva, today they symbolise continuity-conscious urban planning that understands the historical heritage not as a museum backdrop, but as a living space.

With their archaic power, formal clarity and ritual depth, the walls of Ichan Kala are among the most important city fortifications in the Islamic cultural area – a bastion of clay and history that still protects and defines the soul of Khiva today.